Phyrigian Hats

The Lilies Tailor Shop doesn't get the opportunity to make hats as part of our demo, but I've noticed a lack of information available on 12th Century men's hats. There are many illustrations of men without headgear, but there is a wide variety of headgear to choose from when reconstruction the complete costume of this time period.

I'm not fond of the Herbert Norris book (Medieval Costume and Fashion), but it is the place many people start their research on the time period they are attempting to represent. He notes on page 117, "Towards the latter part of this same century hats and caps usually had a point at the top of the crown. It was a prevailing custom at this time to remove the headdress by grasping a point on top; therefore points were necessary to headgear, whatever the shape might be." Sadly, this book is severely lacking in source references and I have no idea if that is a fantasy he made up in his head or something based on reality. Regardless, it is a valid point that hats seem to have a conical or pointed top during this period.

One of the most identifiable hats is the Phrygian Cap. Treatment of this hat is available on-line in various places, but it is a simple construction and a style that was seemingly timeless lasting from antiquity to at least the French revolution.

The first three examples, shown here are from French manuscripts. The first with the fold going backwards is from Paris, St. Genevieve, ms 8 fol 7. The next two are from Paris, Bibl. Mazarine ms. 1 fols. 162v and 104. (http://liberfloridus.cines.fr/)

The next set are from Germany. The first one, from the Prufening Miscelleny, fol 2. The next two are located in Aldersbuch, Munchen St. B. Cod. Lat. 2599, fol 96v and 107. (www.bildindex.de) Hats illustrated are fairly plain, in solid colors.

The last example from the 12th Century is from Netherlands around 1175 AD. This is Harley 1585 fol 7v stored at the British Library. (http://bestiary.ca/manuscripts/manu4519.htm) Hats illustrated seem to have band of decoration (woven or embroidered) around brim.

There are two measurements you need, around your head and over your head from where you want the brim to set to the other side that you want the brim to be on. Again hat has trim around brim.

Once you have the piece drawn out, add for seam allowances and cut 2. Seam along ridge of hat and hem. Add trim as desired around base of hat.

The point on the hat starts about the halfway point of the head. It can be taller, more round, or pointy as you desire. The shape varies slightly throughout time, but it is generally stable in appearance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phrygian_cap

http://www.languedoc-france.info/06141204_libertycap.htm

http://housebarra.com/EP/ep06/16cap.html

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Greece/Phrygian-Cap.html

Costuming Eye Candy

From Lorraine, France 1100-1124 comes this image. It's from a Bible covering Genesis through Ezekiel, from Paris, Bibl. Mazarine ms 3, fol. 151v. Notice the garters and the trim at the ribs! Enjoy!

http://liberfloridus.cines.fr/

12th Century Bible, part 2!

Manuscript no. 2 is a continuation of the previous manuscript. Pictured in red above is the region of France where this Bible originated in 1100-1124 AD.

Figure 8: (detail from fol. 49 v) loose sleeves, red mantle, crown, full length tunic, and red shoes.

Figure 9: (detail from fol. 60) Blue veil, loose sleeves, red mantle. Notice the decoration on face. There is a documentary running currently stating that that is a distinct style of make up. For the life of me I can't remember where I saw this, but the effect they achieved on the show matches this one in my memory.

Figure 10: (detail from fol. 67v) Center front trim disappears into line in drawing. Fitted torso, fitted sleeves, full hem. Red shoes. Notice line at waist.

Figure 11: (detail from fol. 104) Phyringian hat, loose sleeves, no center band of trim down front. Red leggings, Pale shoes. Notice line at waist.

Figure 12: (detail from fol. 116) No shoes, trim on front goes halfway down torso departing from previous depictions. Mantle not red on this illustration which is also deviation from previous.

Figure 13: (detail from fol. 120) Front trim on both tunics goes halfway and not to waist again. fitted sleeve on man being beheaded, but loose and flowing on woman wielding sword. Interesting depiction of red layer over tunic that appears to be illustrated seperately from mantle. Draping of fabric, especially in the mantle layer can create the illusion of seperate layers, but this illustration makes you think about what it really is.

Figure 14: (detail from fol. 125) Bare legs, center front trim goes to waist. Loose at cuff.

Figure 15: (detail from fol. 157) Green mantle, red trim. Trim in manuscript is illustrated in mainly gold and red.

Figure 16: (detail from fol. 178) Loose sleeves, full length tunic, red mantle, and center front trim goes to waist.

Figure 16: (detail from fol. 207) Again we see a layer at the waist that is a different layer than the mantle. This may be artistic liscense in coloring, but bears some consideration since the tunic and mantle are different colors.

Figure 17: (detail from fol. 212) Nude figure. Notice line at waist, same as in drawings of tunic, hmmmm.....

Figure 18: (detail from fol. 228) Blue leggings, knee length tunic with close sleeves and torso. Red shoes.

Figure 19: (detail from fol. 230) Another nude. Notice the line at the waist, hmmmm, looks like the line on the tunics eh?

Figure 20: (detail from fol. 112) Crown, full lenth tunic, red mantle, red leggings, pale shoes.

Interesting costume depictions in this manuscript. They fall in line with much of what is seen in 12th century art. Again, this is from the first quarter of the 12th century. The image of the bliaut and the King Arthur fashions dates to a little later in this century, but the building blocks are here.

At Lilies I will be teaching the class on bliaut again. It's always bothered me all the contrary theories on that garment. Fashion in the Middle Ages generally follows a progression and the seperate skirt sewn onto the bliaut theory has boggled my mind. I've seen the documentation supporting the gathered waistband skirt and understand why people would follow that theory. I'm not sure it bears out. Above I included the nudes partially for this reason. Even on naked people the artists drew that line. Can we then use the occurance of that line to justify a seam?

Pondering and more pondering to be done!

Early 12th Century Bible

I've pulled some costuming illustrations from a 12th Century French Bible. Its of south western origin from the Limosin provence. Started in 1100 and finished in 1124, the manuscript is in the Aquitain style (I don't know what that means, I'm a costumer not a scribe sadly). Paris, Bibl. Mazarine, MS 0001. Text is in latin and covers Genesis through Job.

I'm adding in notes for the oblivious, but not going to comment a lot on them at this point. I have some generalized theories on how to construct these garments, hats, leggings, and shoes, but I don't want to taint what you get out of them right now. I will set a goal of adding links to the side with my theories. Enjoy!

First figure:

Blue tunic, fitted to body and arms. Cuffs and collar in what appears to be embroidered or woven trim. Collar embroidery continues to waist. Bottom of tunic beautifully draped in illustration, knee length. Fitted leggings or bare legs with brown shoes. Shoes appear high in back with tongue extending up a little in front. (detail of fol. 15)

Second figure:

Another blue tunic. Embroidered or woven collar and cuffs. Sleeves and torso of tunic close fitting as above. Ankle length tunic with embroidered or woven hem. Mantle draped over figure not clear on shape. Man on ground in same color blue tunic that is knee length. Standing figure barefoot, prostrate figure red fitted leggins, image unclear for footwear. (detail of fol. 41v)

Third figure:

Grey tunic. Fitted sleeves as above. Trimmed as above. Mantle draped similarly. Red leggings with brown shoes. Grey head covering. Notice horizontal lines drawn into torso area. (detail of fol. 82)

Forth figure:

Two women with man. Gold trim at neck of Man's shirt, red on the women's dresses. Extended hand of woman has gold trim. Mantles used as head covering on women. Green tunic on man. Mantle on man has fitted and trimmed neck. All ankle length tunics. Same horizontal decoration on illumination at torso. Short fitted shoes. (detail fol. 85)

Fifth figure:

Soldier in chain. Knee length tunic, cuff visible under chain. Fitted blue leggings, animal eating feet so no shoes visible. (detail fol. 96)

Sixth figure:

Same style embroidered bands, sleeves a little looser. Red mantle as before with same bands. Full length tunic with embroidered or woven bands at hem. No shoes. (detail fol. 144)

Seventh figure:

Green phyrengian hat. Thicker tunic with rounded detailing at cuffs. Could this imply a furred garment? Red mantle as previous. Looser cuffs. Knee length with bands at hem. Green leggings with same short fitted shoe as before. (detail fol. 162v)

http://liberfloridus.cines.fr/ for original unedited images.

Lilies Tailor Shop Blog

It occurs to me from some of the feedback I've recieved, that a blog might make sharing some of the research and going on easier. I find good tidbits of costuming in manuscripts that are impossibly difficult to sort through and we have a lot of behind the scenes that goes on to make the shop possible.

For the year 2010, we are doing 12th century English/French costuming! It should be a great year. Right now Carmina and I (Maggie) are running the shop at Lilies. Mistresses Diachba and Caera are weaving the big pieces of fabric. The lampworkers are on board and doing some beads for us as well.

What we need:
narrow ware weavers
shoe makers
pewter buckle and tip casters for garters
donations
class teachers

and...

donations, lol

Hope to see you at Lilies!

Maggie