Phyrigian Hats

The Lilies Tailor Shop doesn't get the opportunity to make hats as part of our demo, but I've noticed a lack of information available on 12th Century men's hats. There are many illustrations of men without headgear, but there is a wide variety of headgear to choose from when reconstruction the complete costume of this time period.

I'm not fond of the Herbert Norris book (Medieval Costume and Fashion), but it is the place many people start their research on the time period they are attempting to represent. He notes on page 117, "Towards the latter part of this same century hats and caps usually had a point at the top of the crown. It was a prevailing custom at this time to remove the headdress by grasping a point on top; therefore points were necessary to headgear, whatever the shape might be." Sadly, this book is severely lacking in source references and I have no idea if that is a fantasy he made up in his head or something based on reality. Regardless, it is a valid point that hats seem to have a conical or pointed top during this period.

One of the most identifiable hats is the Phrygian Cap. Treatment of this hat is available on-line in various places, but it is a simple construction and a style that was seemingly timeless lasting from antiquity to at least the French revolution.

The first three examples, shown here are from French manuscripts. The first with the fold going backwards is from Paris, St. Genevieve, ms 8 fol 7. The next two are from Paris, Bibl. Mazarine ms. 1 fols. 162v and 104. (http://liberfloridus.cines.fr/)

The next set are from Germany. The first one, from the Prufening Miscelleny, fol 2. The next two are located in Aldersbuch, Munchen St. B. Cod. Lat. 2599, fol 96v and 107. (www.bildindex.de) Hats illustrated are fairly plain, in solid colors.

The last example from the 12th Century is from Netherlands around 1175 AD. This is Harley 1585 fol 7v stored at the British Library. (http://bestiary.ca/manuscripts/manu4519.htm) Hats illustrated seem to have band of decoration (woven or embroidered) around brim.

There are two measurements you need, around your head and over your head from where you want the brim to set to the other side that you want the brim to be on. Again hat has trim around brim.

Once you have the piece drawn out, add for seam allowances and cut 2. Seam along ridge of hat and hem. Add trim as desired around base of hat.

The point on the hat starts about the halfway point of the head. It can be taller, more round, or pointy as you desire. The shape varies slightly throughout time, but it is generally stable in appearance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phrygian_cap

http://www.languedoc-france.info/06141204_libertycap.htm

http://housebarra.com/EP/ep06/16cap.html

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Greece/Phrygian-Cap.html